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Wobbly parts
After putting everything together your carriages still wobble? It's most likely that your eccentric nuts are not tight in the fitting hole. Basically what this video below is showing, is using a small piece of paper that has been folded over on itself a few times to be used as a shim to wedge in between the nut and the hole sides. This makes the nut fit securely so you can tighten it properly when assembled and make that wobble go away.
The video below explains a lot more and has been made by the amazing ruiraptor
created 13/03/2017
The video below explains a lot more and has been made by the amazing ruiraptor
created 13/03/2017
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X or y axis randomly stalls
X-axis or Y-axis stalling? There are a few fixes.
Try swapping the motors over to see if it's either the motors or the board.
If works on the other axis you'll need to purchase a new motor. Check the "Everything else needed" page to see one of the places to get one.
If it happens after the motor has been switched then it's likely the board. This is solved by turning the POT for the driver on the board.
There are five small screws on the board that each corresponds to a driver (they're in order). The screw itself is the positive terminal, check between that and main ground. Counter clockwise turns voltage up, and a tiny bit goes a long way. Shoot for 0.8-1v
Failing that you could try to use the E1 port if you change a setting in the firmware. (This will be updated once the section is found). There is a section in the firmware where you can assign a second motor for x,y, or z. When you enable it for an axis it automatically assigns it to the next open E port
created 13/03/2017
Try swapping the motors over to see if it's either the motors or the board.
If works on the other axis you'll need to purchase a new motor. Check the "Everything else needed" page to see one of the places to get one.
If it happens after the motor has been switched then it's likely the board. This is solved by turning the POT for the driver on the board.
There are five small screws on the board that each corresponds to a driver (they're in order). The screw itself is the positive terminal, check between that and main ground. Counter clockwise turns voltage up, and a tiny bit goes a long way. Shoot for 0.8-1v
Failing that you could try to use the E1 port if you change a setting in the firmware. (This will be updated once the section is found). There is a section in the firmware where you can assign a second motor for x,y, or z. When you enable it for an axis it automatically assigns it to the next open E port
created 13/03/2017
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Leaking nozzle
This is quite straight forward. Tighten the nozzle heat it to normal then set it to 100ish degrees and tighten again. Don't hold it with your hands!!!
Make sure the nozzle is flush with the heatbreak not the heatblock
The heat break is the tube inside the heatblock, and heatsink.
created 13/03/2017
Make sure the nozzle is flush with the heatbreak not the heatblock
The heat break is the tube inside the heatblock, and heatsink.
created 13/03/2017
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Layer Shifting
Layer shifting is annoying to say the least but for the majority of cases there is a simple way to fix it.
It's usually because your belts are either too loose or sometimes too tight. Either tighten them again and secure them with zip ties or use a belt tensioner found on thingiverse. Here is an example
created 13/03/2017
It's usually because your belts are either too loose or sometimes too tight. Either tighten them again and secure them with zip ties or use a belt tensioner found on thingiverse. Here is an example
created 13/03/2017
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Squeaking from x or y axis
Hearing a dying mouse coming from your printer???? It might be a pulley rubbing.
Move you axis manually one at a time to determine where the squeaking is coming from. It's most likely a pulley so put your finger on one of the pulleys one at a time so that when you move the axis the pulley doesn't move. Once you've found the right one try either loosening or tightening the bolts until the squeak goes away. If it doesn't go away you might have to replace the bearing inside the wheel.
created 13/03/2017
Move you axis manually one at a time to determine where the squeaking is coming from. It's most likely a pulley so put your finger on one of the pulleys one at a time so that when you move the axis the pulley doesn't move. Once you've found the right one try either loosening or tightening the bolts until the squeak goes away. If it doesn't go away you might have to replace the bearing inside the wheel.
created 13/03/2017
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How to change filament
This is pretty straight forward if you just want to change filament from one to the other.
Heat up the nozzle between 170-210. Press the extruder handles together and feed some filament through until you see it coming out of the hotend.
Once you see that give a sharp (but not too sharp) pull in the opposite direction so your pulling the filament out.
You don't need to change the or dismantle anything.
created 13/03/2017
Heat up the nozzle between 170-210. Press the extruder handles together and feed some filament through until you see it coming out of the hotend.
Once you see that give a sharp (but not too sharp) pull in the opposite direction so your pulling the filament out.
You don't need to change the or dismantle anything.
created 13/03/2017
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Clicking Extruder: (Hints on how to fix)
This is a bit of a long one...
Two Common issues:
1) Clogged Hot end. It's this 99% of the time so, take your time with it before delving deeper! #cloggedhotend!
Two reasons, first did you ensure the PTFE tube was cut VERY SQUARE/90 Degrees to length of tube? Even a small angle on the end of this tube can cause issues. Also the tube MUST be pushed in till it BOTTOMS OUT inside the transition zone. (This should be 1.5”/40mm or more depending on extruder). This eliminates one spot where material can “Mushroom” and cause a clog. The second reason is that the nozzle (gold/brass pointed tip) is not tightened against the Heat break (The threaded tube, NOT THE SQUARE BLOCK). This should be tightened while cool and re-tightened when hot, again a small gap between nozzle and square heating block does not mater, what matters here is the nozzle is tightened against the heat break which is that threaded rod. This eliminates the second mushrooming area for material and eliminates this as a clog spot.
2) Extruder clicking, stepper shaking\Jittering :-
Looking at extruder gear when it is issued a command to move it just shudders or rolls back/forth. Check plug on Extruder motor, also check plug on PC board end, ensure both fully plugged in and tight. The normal voltage to activate these steppers is 0.75v now the steppers have a large tolerance and some may need higher voltage. Look for the E0 Potentiometer this one will SLOWLY be adjusted CLOCKWISE to increase the voltage till the motor starts to turn (should have been re-issued large extrude command with bed/hot end heated but can have PTFE tube out of hot end so not waste material.) This may be 1.1v or so just turn it SLOWLY and not fast or you may end up giving it too much! Note if it is the second extruder in a dual set up you will want to adjust the E1 Potentiometer.
Big thanks to Bryan Michengelder
Two Common issues:
1) Clogged Hot end. It's this 99% of the time so, take your time with it before delving deeper! #cloggedhotend!
Two reasons, first did you ensure the PTFE tube was cut VERY SQUARE/90 Degrees to length of tube? Even a small angle on the end of this tube can cause issues. Also the tube MUST be pushed in till it BOTTOMS OUT inside the transition zone. (This should be 1.5”/40mm or more depending on extruder). This eliminates one spot where material can “Mushroom” and cause a clog. The second reason is that the nozzle (gold/brass pointed tip) is not tightened against the Heat break (The threaded tube, NOT THE SQUARE BLOCK). This should be tightened while cool and re-tightened when hot, again a small gap between nozzle and square heating block does not mater, what matters here is the nozzle is tightened against the heat break which is that threaded rod. This eliminates the second mushrooming area for material and eliminates this as a clog spot.
2) Extruder clicking, stepper shaking\Jittering :-
Looking at extruder gear when it is issued a command to move it just shudders or rolls back/forth. Check plug on Extruder motor, also check plug on PC board end, ensure both fully plugged in and tight. The normal voltage to activate these steppers is 0.75v now the steppers have a large tolerance and some may need higher voltage. Look for the E0 Potentiometer this one will SLOWLY be adjusted CLOCKWISE to increase the voltage till the motor starts to turn (should have been re-issued large extrude command with bed/hot end heated but can have PTFE tube out of hot end so not waste material.) This may be 1.1v or so just turn it SLOWLY and not fast or you may end up giving it too much! Note if it is the second extruder in a dual set up you will want to adjust the E1 Potentiometer.
Big thanks to Bryan Michengelder
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Printer suddenly stops/not heating anymore
Ok so no matter what you're trying to do you can't get the printer to heat-up. This could be a variety of things so here's a logical way to look at it.
Check that all connections are in tight, the thermistor connector pins tend to get loose after a while.
When you turn on your printer can you move it through the controls on the LCD or software like Octoprint? If so can you then just heat up the hotend and print? If that's the case the fault is with the bed. Check the power connectors or the thermistor and replace if necessary
So the hotend doesn't heat up? The thermistor may be broken but before you do that, the cause I had was when using an ATX PCIe 6pin extension. The extension plug had melted and not enough power was getting to the system, I changed the plug over and it all started working. Failing that I could be the thermistor and look about replacing it.
Another thing to check and it's one that might get over looked is the USB cable and SD card that came with the printer. Throw them both in the bin and get some proper ones as they are very cheap.
If you've checked every thing and enough power is getting there if could be the board that might have blown and unfortunately you'll have to replace that.
Remember check things in a logical order don't just assume that it can only be one thing as I didn't expect my issue to be the extension plug on the PCIe 6pin.
created 17/03/2017
Check that all connections are in tight, the thermistor connector pins tend to get loose after a while.
When you turn on your printer can you move it through the controls on the LCD or software like Octoprint? If so can you then just heat up the hotend and print? If that's the case the fault is with the bed. Check the power connectors or the thermistor and replace if necessary
So the hotend doesn't heat up? The thermistor may be broken but before you do that, the cause I had was when using an ATX PCIe 6pin extension. The extension plug had melted and not enough power was getting to the system, I changed the plug over and it all started working. Failing that I could be the thermistor and look about replacing it.
Another thing to check and it's one that might get over looked is the USB cable and SD card that came with the printer. Throw them both in the bin and get some proper ones as they are very cheap.
If you've checked every thing and enough power is getting there if could be the board that might have blown and unfortunately you'll have to replace that.
Remember check things in a logical order don't just assume that it can only be one thing as I didn't expect my issue to be the extension plug on the PCIe 6pin.
created 17/03/2017
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How to monitor your prints (some suggestions)
The easiest way to monitor your prints in my opinion is via Octoprint or Astroprint. Octoprint runs off a Raspberry Pi that acts as a print and web server. Connect the printer via USB to the Pi and you won't have of the issues when printing from a Windows based PC i.e PC shuts down because you forgot to turn the auto updates off, or the battery ran out of the laptop you attached to it because you forgot to plug in the charger.
There are an number of plugins also that can be added to the octopi, there is a PSU remote control where you can control the power via the phone app if you have a compatable ATX PSU. A telegram service that updates you with a picture of your print periodically send straight to your phone. Monitor the temperature and see live what it's doing via the web camera that is attached (i've been able to use any web cam so far not just the RPi cam). Take use of the timelapse function when the print is finished to replay how it printed.
You can find out how to install octoprint from here. and get a Raspberry Pi from here
Alternatively you can also monitor your prints from simplify3D but I've haven't had much experience with that as i quickly moved to the Pi
created 17/03/2017
There are an number of plugins also that can be added to the octopi, there is a PSU remote control where you can control the power via the phone app if you have a compatable ATX PSU. A telegram service that updates you with a picture of your print periodically send straight to your phone. Monitor the temperature and see live what it's doing via the web camera that is attached (i've been able to use any web cam so far not just the RPi cam). Take use of the timelapse function when the print is finished to replay how it printed.
You can find out how to install octoprint from here. and get a Raspberry Pi from here
Alternatively you can also monitor your prints from simplify3D but I've haven't had much experience with that as i quickly moved to the Pi
created 17/03/2017
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